Aged Negronis

One cocktail trend I've noticed is the act of aging cocktails in some sort of barrel. I first saw barrel-aged negronis on a menu when I was in Portland last fall. I was pretty intrigued by this--what gets aged in the barrel? Is the cocktail mixed and the whole thing aged or was just one ingredient aged (and if so, which one)? What sort of barrel was it aged in? Once I got home, I did some research and found a good entry on the barrel-aged cocktail trend on Jeffrey Morgenthaler's blog. I like the idea of pre-mixing drinks; it certainly makes dishing up drinks at cocktail parties much faster. I love a drink experiment, so I thought about what I wanted to make and how I was going to age it.

I thought about what would benefit from being soaked in a bourbon barrel (or equivalent) for a few weeks, and I pretty much immediately wrote off bourbon-based cocktails. The bourbon's already been aged for years in bourbon barrels, what's the point of aging it a few more weeks? I can see aging a specific ingredient like Campari or sweet vermouth and then mixing it with bourbon, but that's a test for another day. Because my two main spirit bases are bourbon and gin, I decided to focus on a gin drink. Since Morgenthaler did negronis, I figured I start with that, too. Essentially, you can age anything that's all booze, but I wanted to start simple and focus on a drink that I'm already very familiar with.

Now, I had to decide what I was going to age it in. There are multiple places online to get mini barrels, but that seemed like a lot of booze when I had no idea if this was going to be drinkable or not. One of the places that sells mini barrels, Tuthilltown Spirits, also sells kits that have a 375ml glass bottle along with a wood stick from a barrel. These sticks use something Tuthilltown calls "honey comb" cutouts; the sticks have many little holes drilled at all angles to provide for more surface area. The price on one of these kits is low ($12.50) and it requires a lot less booze, so I went with this.

At some point in my research I came across this blog entry from ManMade. This guy was doing exactly what I wanted to, so I used this as a model. I ordered a bag of Jack Daniel's Wood Smoking Chips from Amazon as an alternative to the barrel staves from Tuthilltown (I used 12 grams of chips so it would be nearly the same weight as the stave) and went to work mixing my batches of negronis.

The recipe I used was a basic negroni mix, but because I was making two batches that were 375ml, I upped the size of my batch. Each bottle had:

• 1/2 cup Plymouth gin
• 1/2 cup Campari
• 1/2 cup Carpano Antica sweet vermouth

The picture on the left is the barrel stave kit from Tuthilltown; the right is a mason jar with Jack Daniel's wood chips.

Pre-aging

I put these both in the root cellar (a dark, cool place) for two weeks. I shook them up every three or four days. After two weeks, I opened them up, strained each into its own pitcher, and invited folks over for taste tests. I also made a pitcher of "fresh" negronis as a base line. Right away I could see that the aged batches were much darker in color than the fresh. I thought that might tip everyone off to which was the fresh, but it didn't. I labeled each pitcher A, B, or C so it was a blind taste test. To really nerd out, I made up a questionnaire to capture what people thought as they tasted each sample. If I was going to do this again, I'd probably give everyone all three samples at once so they compare each against each other.

Some photos:

 

 Pouring Sample A

Filling out the questionnaire for Sample A

Pouring Sample B

The samples have been consumed...now to score these!

Sample A was the wood chip version, B was the fresh, and C was the barrel stave version. I added an small orange peel garnish to each. Most people thought the wood chip version was the most bitter and they generally liked the barrel stave version the most. Personally, I thought A was pretty smooth, not overly smoky, and quite sweet. No one else really agreed with this opinion, but maybe I was biased because I was hoping the best would be the one with the cheapest barrel ingredient. Anyway, the two smoked versions were really very different from the fresh and from each other. I would definitely make either version again as they were both quite tasty.

I plan on aging other cocktails in the future--so far I've thought about the Bijou (gin, sweet vermouth, green Chartreuse, and orange bitters), the Martinez (Old Tom gin, sweet vermouth, maraschino, and bitters), and the Dubonnet Cocktail (gin and Dubonnet). Dear readers, have any of you jumped on this trend? Post in the comments what you've aged and how you've aged it.

The Manhattan

It's hard to believe that we haven't blogged about the Manhattan yet--especially since it was probably my gateway cocktail to the world of other delicious cocktails. It's one of those drinks where you're likely to already have all the ingredients on hand (whiskey, sweet vermouth, bitters, and a cherry, if you like), but don't let the simple ingredients fool you into thinking the Manhattan is a simple drink. A good Manhattan is sweet, smooth, and vaguely herbal. It goes down too easy as many attendees of our annual February Doldrums Party can attest to. Some folks like them up, others on the rocks. Some shake a Manhattan, others stir. However, these are the finer points you can explore later.

The history of the cocktail dates back to the late 19th Century and is one of cocktails named for NYC's five boroughs. I just tried the Brooklyn and will be blogging about that experience very soon. And, of course, at some point the Bronx, the Queens, and the Staten Island Ferry will also be featured (although the Staten Island Ferry sounds retched, draw your own conclusions).

Although some prefer a perfect Manhattan (half sweet and half dry vermouth), I prefer mine with all sweet vermouth, Carpano Antica or Vya are delicious if you can get your hands on either. Also, I should confess that I like my Manhattan with bourbon--but, let's be honest, I prefer bourbon in every whiskey cocktail. However, a traditional Manhattan is generally made with rye or canadian whiskey (never brandy, Wisconsin, never brandy). For more history on the Manhattan, check out this little NYT article.

Ingredients:
2 oz whiskey (bourbon or rye)
1 oz sweet vermouth
2 dashes bitters (we used Fee Brothers, but orange bitters are also nice)
1 Luxardo cherry

Stir all liquid ingredients with ice and strain into a glass. Serve up or over ice and garnish with a cherry.

The Boulevardier

Tonight's cocktail is the Boulevardier, close cousin to the Negroni. This is a classic recipe, but the particulars of this one come to you from Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails by Ted Haigh, AKA Dr. Cocktail (this book is AWESOME, by the way and I highly recommend it). According to the good doctor's research, the Boulevardier first appeared in print 1927, in Harry McElhone's (ex-barman at the Plaza Hotel and owner of Harry's New York Bar) Barflies and Cocktails.

For this one, you'll need:

• 1 1/2 oz bourbon (I've used Evan Williams, which is probably one of my favorite mixing and plain old drinking bourbons, but you could use anything)
• 1 oz Campari
• 1 oz Carpano Antica sweet vermouth (again, the Carpano is suggested, but any sweet vermouth will do in a pinch)
• Garnish: Cherry (we have some really fancy Luxardo cherries that I like to use), lemon peel, or orange slice
• Ice

Throw the bourbon, Campari, and vermouth in an ice-filled shaker. Shake until chilled and strain into a cocktail glass. Put the garnish in and enjoy.

This is basically a Negroni with bourbon instead of gin, and honestly I prefer this to the Negroni. I feel like the bourbon sweetens up the Campari, whereas the gin keeps it fairly bitter. I like both drinks though, so make sure you try 'em both and see which you prefer.

I feel like I have to come clean about the shaker business here--I rarely (and I mean rarely) use a shaker. I really only ever use one if someone is having a Martini (which I never do, but occasionally my sweetheart likes a Gibson) or if we have company and I want to be classy. I usually just put everything in an old-fashioned glass, fill it with ice, and stir until it is chilled. I will admit there is something nice about using a shaker, mainly that your drink gets COLD fast, but I tend to struggle with not making a mess. So, if you don't use a shaker, don't feel bad, because I'm right there with you.

Chet Helms

The latest issue of Imbibe Magazine had a pretty big section devoted to pisco. I'd never had it, and the only drink I'd ever heard of using it is the Pisco Sour. The egg in a PS makes me kind of nervous (I'm still new to eggy cocktails) so I looked for another recipe using pisco and found the Chet Helms on the Imbibe website. I always feel really good about myself when I have all the ingredients for one of these cocktails.

• 1 1/2 oz pisco
• 1/2 oz Carpano Antica sweet vermouth
• 1/2 oz Campari
• 1/2 oz fresh lemon juice
• 3 dashes rhubarb bitters (I like Fee's)
• Club soda
• Ice

Put the pisco, vermouth, Campari, lemon juice, and bitters in a shaker filled with ice. Shake it up and strain into an ice-fille collins glass. Fill it the rest of the way with club soda and garnish with an orange wedge and mint. 

This has become a house favorite. It's boozy, but not overwhelmingly so and it is quite refreshing. I highly recommend this one.